La Corrida de Toros

Parental Advisory: This material may not be suitable for children under 18. Really though, this post is very detailed because I want to remember everything forever. I have included most of the photos and video I took without censoring, for my own memories. I have an easily detached personality and I am not a member of PETA, so it didn't bother me much. Thus, as I told my madre española when she asked if I was for or against bull fighting, I think it is a very special and important part of Spanish culture. It's an art, a form of expression, and a legacy for some families (father to son, a toro dynasty). If you are interested in the amazing piece of Spain I got to experience, read and enjoy. If not, don't worry, there will be other posts.

May 15, 2012 - part of the Festival of San Isidro, the patron saint of Madrid. What an experience! Thank goodness I'm not an animal-rights activist because some of the group joked about joining PETA after. But I think I'm detached enough that it didn't bother me. According to the schedule I saw for Madrid, there is a bull fight every day in the month of May. And for the rest of the summer, they happen every Sunday. So there were 3 matadors and they each got 2 bulls in turn. The first two guys weren't very good (according to the old man in front of us who was screaming what I later learned were crudely-woven obscenities). But the third guy -- he was obviously great. Not only did he make it look so easy and fast, but you could just see the grace and poise and skill all over him -- from his hat-covered head down his sparkling, arched back, flowing through his arms and hands and into the red cape, resting in his pink-socked legs and especially his black-slipper-capped feet with every step and turn. The tickets were cheap so I'm sure he's probably just a nobody, but even I (knowing nothing about la corrida de toros) could tell he was an artist and that this is not a sport, but and art. At the beginning, I was a bit shocked and startled by what was flashing before my eyes. But by the end, I was completely entranced. It was really kind of majestic. Other than the nasty concoction resulting from the mix of cigar and cigarette smoke that we battled by sniffing orange peels,

it was really cool!

As a side note, Caitlin and I were actually watching a reality TV show the other night during dinner called Quiero ser Torero and the cute 18 to 19-year-old boys were learning everything from posture to strength to timing to grace. It was cool.

So here's how it works: At the very beginning, there's a parade thing where everybody comes out and we all clap for the different people and the fans cheer for their favorite toreros. It was kind of like when all the little league teams walk around Chase Field (formerly BOB) where the Diamondbacks play. 

Then everybody takes their places and a guy comes out with a sign telling what kind of bull is coming out, how much it weighs, etc. 

The bull is released and there are three rounds.

#1 - the lesser toreros

Their job is to get the bull warmed up. They are dressed in the sparkly costumes you typically think of (including the pink socks) and use a big cape that is pink on one side and yellow on the other. They get the bull's attention, he charges, they whip the cape and then hide behind a wall while the next guy takes his turn. There are about 6 or 7 of these guys but only 3 have been scheduled to be matadors. 

At the end of 5 minutes, the trumpets sound and it's time for...

#2 - the picadores and the banderilleros

The picadores are on horses that are covered in giant padding and blinded for good measure. Sometimes it gets dangerous for the horses! 

But don’t worry, none of them died. These picadors carry what looked like jousting lances. Their job is to stick the bull in the shoulders to get him hurt, bleeding, and mad. 

The banderilleros are the same guys (the toreros) from the last round, but they've traded their capes for banderillas. (Thanks to Google for the pics.)

They get the bull's attention, he charges, and just as he's about to hook 'em good, the guy plants his bandilleras right in the bull's shoulders. 

These somehow stay fastened to the bull's back and flop around for the rest of the fight. Each bull gets about 6 of these. After another 5 minutes comes the most well-known round.

#3 - the matador or torero

One of the guys from round #1 steps out. He is dressed in full garb and holds a smaller, red cape and a sword. This is where the dance gets serious. It's just him and the bull. The matador should demonstrate complete control of the bull and his movements. They should be one. Watching this was just like watching a ballet or lyrical dance where you kind of just get lost in the movement. The matador looks for the opportune moment to strike, preferably when the bull is tired, slow, close, and has his feet together. I learned this last part from the Lladró man I befriended earlier this week. When the bull's front legs are close together, his shoulders spread wide and the matador can plunge his sword straight to the heart. If the bull's feet are shoulder-width apart, there is a bigger chance that the matador's sword will hit a shoulder blade or ribs when he tries to end the dance. Here are a couple of videos I took. The guy I liked most is the one wearing blue with gold trim.